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Writer's pictureEsther Burke

Diary of a Wedding Dress: the introduction

So maybe this should’ve been the preface and the first post the introduction... I’m not really sure. Regardless, here it goes. I’ve been avoiding this a bit because I HATE making gauges. Since I’m making this pattern for me it many not have been totally necessary to make a gauge swatch first, I could’ve just used the finished product to grab the measurements from but since I wasn’t really sure how I wanted to make it work, I figured I’d do a couple swatches.

I hate gauge swatches. With a passion. They seem so useless even though if you’re making a fitted piece, it’s definitely not. So when you follow a pattern they give you a 4x4" (10cm) measurement with the number of stitches and rows within that four inches. So you have to make a swatch even bigger than 4x4 to measure the stitches within to get your gauge and if it doesn’t meet the pattern maker’s gauge, you start again with a different sized hook.

Most times, my gauge runs on the small side with tighter, closer stitches so if I’m not making a wearable I just go a hook size up without making a gauge swatch... honestly if the wearable piece is not meant to be fitted, I often do the same because... hate swatches but I digress.

So last week sometime I started searching for a piece. The yarn I’m using calls for a 4mm hook and since I’m starting with the bust of the dress, I figured I’d go down to a 3.75. The stitching was way too much gap between each stitch and since I’m not sure I’m lining it, I’d have to go smaller, so I abandoned the swatch for another day.

Another day was today. I’ve been avoiding a pattern I’m testing for another designer, so I pulled out my bamboo yarn and went at it. Starting with a 3.25 mm hook, and I know I can’t go much smaller because my yarn will be too thick for it. I go down to a 2.25mm when I make my swimwear, but this yarn is thicker. So I did a swatch of double crochet stitches but it just has so much gap when it’s stretched.


Sometimes when I make festival tops, I do stitches in between them, but this yarn is too thick and makes more of a gap that way. Since I haven’t decided whether I’m lining the bodice so I want to make sure there’s a minimal gap between the stitches.


I remembered seeing a comment on a post in an online crochet group about how they make linked double crochets to make their clothing and I set out to figure out how to do it and let me tell you! Literal game changer! This linked double crochet creates an even more fabric like piece with minimal gapping when stretched. I am so excited, I’ve been crocheting for 26 years and I’ve never even seen this anywhere. It also creates a pretty cool detail that will add a subtle detail and texture to the otherwise plain bodice I have in mind.

So now the dreaded gauge swatch is over (notice none of them are actually close to four inches? Yeah... guilty), I know what hook I plan on using; I know how many rows and how many stitches should be in a four-inch space and what type of stitch I’ll be using. It’ll take a little math and I’ll be on my way to my very own vow renewal dress… or at least to starting the bodice.


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